This year marks the 50th birthday of Hearty Burgundy, one of the most famous wines in American history. It has always offered solid pleasure in a red, and still does. A blend of Zinfandel and Petite Sirah, it's dry, full-bodied and rich in cherry jam, licorice and black pepper flavors, subtly touched with smoky wood.

For its debut in a cork-finished high-shouldered bottle, Gallo's perennial favorite is lean and fruity, with black and pepper and berry flavors reminiscent of Syrah; a hit of toasty oak keeps it in line, and the tannin is well within bounds on the finish.